DANCING FOR MIRACLES

For which saint would you dance? End of October I encountered a religious celebration of el Señor de los Milagros (the Lord of Miracles) outside of a neighbourhood bar at a street corner in Tarapoto, Peru. What surprised me was people dancing for the image of a crucified Jesus on a mobile altar, on the rythm of cheerful Amazonian music. A substantial crowd was seated, after participating in a ´purple´ procession with the icon of their saint. ¨Dancing honours our saint¨, a dancer told me, slightly out of breath. “This is how we do this here in the Amazon, by dancing”, he proudly acknowledged. His reverent and inspired face, moved me, even though I am not a religious person.

The whole scene seems a nice example of cultural syncretism, which combines African, European, and various American elements, which I will try to explain below.

The first painting of the Crist of Miracles was drawn during the 17th century by the ‘Angolan’ enslaved Benito Dalcon, who painted Jesus in his own image. The celebration of this image during public processions occurs every October and has become one of the most popular Catholic traditions in Peru and Latin America. What started as an Afro-Peruvian devotion became increasingly popular among the Creole middle class in the 18th century after a series of earthquakes, which destroyed the city of Lima and much of the coast. Another name for the saint is the Lord of Earthquakes, as October is a month of frequent tremors. The historian Maria Rostorowski connected this fact with the God of Pachacamac, a pre-Incan culture, located south of Lima. His veneration was brought by people from that culture to Lima after it was founded by the Spanish conquistadores. So, the saint reflects African, European and pre-Columbian American traditions. One detail that I still need to check, is that the dancing for the saint reflects the dragging foot of a chained slave and the free foot of a liberated person.

The pope prayed, yet did not really dance, for el Señor de los Milagros in Lima today.

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